It is common to be surprised at the difference in price between a bespoke jacket and a suit. They are usually left off base to find out that a suit sometimes costs double, or even more, than what they’ve payed for a jacket.
But there’s a reason to all this nonsense!
The obvious first: a jacket is just a jacket, suits are jackets and trousers, sometimes even a vest. More clothes more money. Duh!
Still, most of the times the difference between having a suit made or having a sports jacket made can seem exponential. So the main reason is this: cloth for suits is almost always more costly than for sport coats. Most suits are made out of worsted wools; worsted wools are cloths that undergo a combing process that gives cloth a nice flat, smooth, sleek finish. Making worsted wools is a more elaborate process, making these fabrics costlier. So when you jump from the Tweeds sample book to the S120’s Worsted Wools sample book chances are you’re already scaling up a notch or two budget-wise.
Second point is that for a suit the tendency is to look for an elegant looking, finer cloth. Sports jackets by definition are more casual, you can make a really cool jacket with a cloth that is not so pricey, but a suit needs to look elegant and refined. And that takes a better cloth. So add another notch or two.
Final fact that might add to the price is that a suit will always look far better hand canvased. Fusing a suit is hardly ever a good idea. Worsted wools have a higher risk of delamination (or bubbling) than other cloths such as tweeds or flannels; and since they are lighter cloths, when fused they drape very poorly, they require the structure that a canvas contributes to the jacket to give it that beautiful shape.
So while common sense would dictate that if I payed $10 for a jacket (just saying!) then for a two piece suit I would expect to pay $14 or $15 (jacket + that extra pair of trousers), in reality, it’s hardly ever the case.
1. Cloths for suits are costlier.
2. You will probably end up choosing a finer quality of cloth.
3. Chances are you will ask for a beautiful hand canvasing.
4. (Remember this most of all) It’s really worth it and it really shows!